Andover was the first delightful little Maine town on the trail where we spent two nights at Pine Ellis hostel. Delicious meals were had at the local market/restaurant where they had a fantastic salad and sweet potato fries which we later topped off by sharing a half gallon of ice cream. I promise I am not going to do this when I'm off the trail! "Old Town Days" was coming up on the weekend and we got to enjoy a local band Friday night in the town square. I did miss not being able to see the Saturday women's skillet throwing contest! Andover is also the home of first trans-Atlantic television satellite signal sent out in 1962 and has many lovely old but well-kept homes.
Leaving Andover we did our first slack pack of the trail. Slacking is when you hike carrying only the food you'll need for the day and get met at the end with the rest of your gear. Hiker Maggie's mother has been slacking her for a few days and she offered to take us to the trailhead where we hiked for 10 wonderfully light weight miles. I'd had the feeling before that slacking was sort of cheating, but after doing it once, well, I could really get into this! Back to reality though, we were met with our gear, had lunch and went on about 8 more miles. Maine is beautiful and full of lakes, or ponds as they usually say, regardless of size.
Rangley was our next Maine stopover. The Hiker Hut hostel was close to the trailhead where the owner was conveniently waiting in case someone needed a ride to his place or to town. This was a great little place, totally off the grid and with wonderfully hospitable and unique hosts. Catherine designs jewelry and Steve (aka Peace Poet), in the winter months, goes to Africa where he is getting operations for children with hydrocephalus. Catherine also had a huge pot of chili ready for us along with cornbread all made in her outdoor kitchen.
our cabin with kitchen next door
Steve & Catherine's A-frame
vegetable garden, a tough project in chilly Maine this summer
our wonderful hosts
From Rangely it was a two day walk into Stratton. Maine will be remembered for the many lakes which you can swim in usually, but it's been too cool for us to do so. Very pretty though and we hear loons occasionally. The views are now expansive and it almost feels like hiking in the West again with all the openness.
In Stratton we waited out the rain, went into Kingfield to resupply and also found the Maine Ski Museum, reconnected with Analog who we'd first met back at Fontana Dam and who has already finished the trail, and then headed out on a gorgeous sunny day. Highlights here are possibly some of the best of the whole trail, Avery Peak with the view down to Flagstaff Lake on whose shore we eventually camped.
The next two days took us into Caratunk by way of a unique river crossing. This was not a rock hop or a ford, but a canoe ride! Not a bad summer job. Notice the white blaze in the bottom of the canoe.
From here we hiked to Monson through more outstanding scenery.
Monson is the last town before entering the last section of the AT, the 100-mile wilderness and Katadhin. Our hostel offered a hearty breakfast of French toast, eggs, bacon, sausage and juice to help get us on the way!
